Back in the days when Explore Historic California ran commercial four wheel drive (4WD) tours, we required all the vehicles in our group to have CB radios. The radios provided an easy and relatively inexpensive way to communicate from vehicle to vehicle while on the move. Our clients also learned that radio communication helped enhance the enjoyment and safety of backcountry travel.

Bill Halstead's Jeep was equipped with only a CB radio while Marty Cole, KB6OME, had both CB and amateur radio equipment in his Tacoma.

While we no longer guide commercial tours, we still use two way radios when traveling in the backcountry. Which radios we use depends on where we are going and who we are with. Many of our personal traveling companions are also amateur radio (ham) operators, so most of the time we use VHF amateur radio which offers greater range, better clarity and less interference than CB radio. We still use CB radio when traveling with non-hams as well as when traveling with other groups or clubs.

Regardless of the radio or radio service, there is some yearly maintenance that should be performed to keep communications equipment in good working order.

A basic CB radio such as this Uniden, can provide reliable vehicle to vehicle backcountry communication.

Your radio’s antenna is the link to the outside world. A poorly functioning antenna will reduce radio range and could possibly cause damage to the radio. Check for corrosion (and clean as necessary) around the antenna base where it connects to the antenna mount. An old toothbrush and pencil eraser work well to remove minor corrosion. More serious corrosion can be removed by the gentle use of a soft wire (brass) brush or Scotch Brite abrasive pad. Avoid harsh abrasives. After cleaning, the antenna base can be lubricated with liquid silicone to make it easier to remove. If your antenna uses locking screws to hold secure it to a loading coil or spring, make sure these are all present and secure as well.

The antenna is linked to the radio by way of a coaxial cable. The portions of the cable outside the vehicle are subject to detonation from long (years) exposure to sunlight. The black plastic jacket dries out and cracks which will cause the cable to corrode on the inside and work less efficiently. The cable usually connects to the antenna mount through a soldered and sealed connection. This is also subject to corrosion from water trapped inside, but may be difficult to inspect. Corroded connections should be repaired. Since coaxial cable can’t be spliced like ordinary electrical wire, detonated antenna cable should be replaced. Usually it’s easier and more cost efficient to replace the entire cable and antenna mount.

Inside the vehicle, the antenna cable connects to the radio with a special screw on connector. Check this connector at the radio to make sure it is tight and the cable isn’t damaged or pinched. Also check the back of the radio to make sure the power cables are in good condition and properly plugged in (although not all radios have a plug at the radio end of the power cable).

The (usually) red and black wires on the back of the radio connect it to the vehicle’s electrical system. The red wire is 12v positive and the black wire is negative.  CB radios draw about 2 amperes of current when transmitting, but higher powered amateur radios can draw 10 times as much current. Check the connections where your radio power wires tie into the vehicle electrical system to make sure the connections are free of corrosion, are properly insulted, and are secure.

Mobile amateur radios are approximately the same size as many CB's, but offer better voice clarity, higher power and more channel options. However, an operator license is reqired.

Inspect your radio’s coiled microphone cable for signs of wear. Sunlight will eventually damage the plastic outer insulation making it brittle and subject to cracking. Some microphones have cables that can be easily unplugged from inside the microphone housing for replacement. Others have to be unsoldered for removal and the new cable then has to be resoldered when installed. If you don’t have the soldering skills or equipment, replacing the entire microphone may be less contentious than taking it in for repair. At the opposite end of the mic cable is a connector at the radio. Check that the connector is properly seated and tight and the cable hasn’t deteriorated from bending near the connector.

Family Radio Service (FRS) handhelds are compact and easy to use, but don't work well from vehicle to vehicle.

Handheld radios are a bit easier to maintain than mobile radios. Check the battery contacts to make sure they aren’t corroded. You did remove the batteries when you put the radio away last season, didn’t you? Lightly corroded contacts can be cleaned with an old toothbrush and pencil eraser. If corrosion is extensive, the radio may be damaged beyond economic repair. Also check your batteries or battery packs and be sure to fully charge rechargeable batteries. Not all handheld radios have removable antennas. FRS/GMRS radios do not, MURS radios may, and most amateur radios do have removable antennas. Inspect the antenna connection to make sure it is free of corrosion and seats tightly. The antenna should also be free from damage. We have to be vigilant with our handhelds’ antennas because the dog and cats enjoy chewing on the antenna tips.

Amateur, CB, FRS/GMRS and MURS radios are well suited to backcountry and emergency communication because they can operate without connection to network infrastructure. Cell phones, on the other hand, must be connected to the cellular network to provide communications although some apps, such as GPS and compass, may have limited functionality without connectivity.

Cellular networks are well established in urban and suburban settings, but offer sparse coverage in the backcountry. Cellular coverage is also affected by regional topography such as mountains, canyons and dense vegetation blocking the cellular radio signals.

One way of enhancing cell coverage in poor signal areas is through the use of a cellular booster. Some older cell phones had tiny external antenna connectors, but modern 3G/4G devices only have complex internal antennas. These can be connected to a booster through a coupling cradle. Boosters cost several hundred dollars (and up) and offer limited effectiveness.